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What makes the U.P. Unique?

These fond recollections of Michigan's Upper Peninsula have been submitted by readers of Michigan History.
 

The Great Nose Challenge 
It was a typical Sunday afternoon in Jessieville and my mother was tending bar at Longhini's Tavern. There were a few regular customers in the place when another local man named Sam came in and ordered his usual drink. Sam was a close friend of my grandfather, who owned the bar. Sam sat for a bit and asked my mother, "JoJo, you do me favor? You write letter to Jimmy Durante. I think I have bigger nose than him." Mom wrote the letter and put a picture of Sam in profile in and envelope, and Sam mailed it.

Time passed by and Mom forgot about the letter. Sam never said anything either, so it seemed a lost endeavor. One day however, that all changed. Sam came into the bar excited and smiling from ear to ear. He saw my mom and said, "JoJo, you write good letter. Look what I get." Sam opened the package and there was a handwritten letter from none other than Jimmy Durante. Durante thanked Sam for the picture and the challenge, and said Sam was real close to beating him, but he thought his nose was bigger. To prove his claim, Durante had enclosed an autographed picture of himself in the return package. Durante had his photo superimposed over Sam's and he had Sam by about ¼ of an inch. Durante went on to say that Sam was the closest to beating him up to that time.
Donald J. Hoffner 
Coldwater 

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1946 - A trip to the U.P. 
At the end of World War II going to the U.P. was exciting, the signs on the roadside "100, 75, 50, 25 miles to the Straits of Mackinac" conjured up images of an unknown land. Driving off the car ferry revealed a different land. Reconstructed Indian teepees in St. Ignace, and a rugged landscape with rock outcroppings. Driving to Sault St. Marie was desolate, evident by the unbroken wall of pine and cedar forests along the roadside.

High fences and U.S. Army guards greeted us at the "Soo." The locks at the St. Mary rapids were vital to the steel industry and U.S. war effort. From a distance the huge lake boats could be seen inching their way up and down the waterway. At Soo Junction we boarded the Toonerville Trolley, which took us to the Falls of the Tahquamenon. Winding through the meadows, the narrow gauge train rocked and creaked its way to the river. There, we boarded the Paul Bunyan, a two story flat-bottomed riverboat, for a two-hour trip down the golden tinted river. A short walk to the falls revealed a true gem in the wilderness.
Andy Hegedus 
Montague

A Trip to Shelldrake 
When summer arrives, my trip to Shelldrake, four miles north of Paradise on Whitefish Bay is well worth the 320-mile drive from Mason. Days are spent on the beach and in the water and I get reacquainted with the area's loons, eagles, sea gulls, chipmunks, deer and big moose. I can go to White Fish Point and check on the old Historical Light House or walk the beaches to find my best ever agate. A beautiful sight is to see the full moon come up over the bay. 
Verna Favorite 
Mason

Bergland Memories 
In the west end of the U.P. is a lake shaped like a boot, and at the toe of the boot is a one-of-a-kind place, a town dear to my heart. The lake is called Gogebic, and the town (founded in 1902 around a lumber mill) is Bergland, Michigan. Many of the first settlers there were first generation immigrants from Europe.

Imagine growing up in such a place! There is the lake for swimming and fishing and skating, there are interesting playmates with whom to explore the woods and climb the hills and opportunities abound to learn about other countries and customs from natives of far-away places.

Several young men from Bergland became Michigan State Policemen; one of them was Oscar Bergland, whom I married in 1944. He loved Bergland, and together we often spent time there in summer or fall. My children and I still do. It is our special place, and is part of the unusual entity that is the U.P. of Michigan. 
Charity Bergland 
Mason 

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A U.P. Fourth of July 
After the church service we join hundreds of people to participate in and watch the annual Curtis Fourth of July Parade. Our children's antique cars (a couple of vintage Fords and two Mustangs from the mid 1960s) are joined by a unique conglomeration of parade units including marching bands from Newberry, Sault Ste. Marie and Canada. Homemade flouts touting the wonderful vacation opportunities in the eastern Upper Peninsula, such as fishing, boating, snowmobiling, hunting and scenic color tours, are also cheered on. Locals participate with decorated bicycles, fire trucks and logging vehicles. It is a wonderful parade and different every year. 
Sandra Veneberg Karsten 
Zeeland

Grand Marais 
To see this town all in a working day 
You must know the way to Grand Marais. 
A maritime museum and sand dunes 
Forested cliffs and beaches in an afternoon.

On Lake Superior you will find rocks 
Look for agates on beaches or from docks 
Many minerals are on display 
At the Dunes Saloon in Grand Marais

'Tis the gateway to Pictured Rocks National Shoreline 
Stop in the brewery for a beer or homemade cherry wine
Highway #58 will pass waterfalls and a campground. 
Watch real close for white-tailed deer on the bound.

Only forty miles along the wavy shore 
You'll see Log Slide, Miner's Castle and more. 
Munising at the other end of the park 
Vintage shops, homey restaurants after dark.

Pictured Rocks sandstone bluffs are best to see 
On a three-hour cruise from Munising; for a fee. 
Mineral shades of ochre and bright salmon 
Make Pictured Rocks truly a phenomenon.

Do you know the way to Grand Marais?
Mary Jean Baker 
Charlotte

Taking the Side Roads 
When traveling the U.P., I learned early on to take the side roads and spend time in the out-of-the-way communities. Nearly always I was fortunate to contact residents who were as ready to tell the history of their area, as I was to listen.

There was a strong movement at one time to make the U.P. a separate state. It was to be called Superior and Marquette was to be the capitol. Lucky for all of us it never happened. When the bridge was finally built, it provided the bond much needed to weld us together as a state and thereby enriching all our lives.
Wayne Rose 
Saranac

Michigan's U.P. 
If you would like to see Michigan dressed in her best 
Cross the "Big Mac" in the fall and head out to the West. 
Take M-28 or Route No. 2, then any crossroad that beckons to you. 
Don't hurry, drive slowly, stop now and then. 
The past may be over but you can see it again. 
The museums tell the stories, a tale of the past, 
How our pioneers carved a nation, one that would last. 
The fur traders, the miners, and men with their axes made the woods ring. 
They built schools and churches and lumber was king. 
Superior's agate beaches yield stones all colors and hue, 
Each wave brings in more, the beach always new. 
Climb mountains, look down at treetops 
A patchwork of color, the view never stops. 
Stop in at parks, rest your tired backs, 
Take home the memories and leave only tracks. 
Wayne Sheldon Rose 
Saranac

Beginning a Great Adventure 
To a young boy, reaching the Straits of Mackinac and boarding the car ferry was the beginning of a great adventure into uncharted territory. I can still see my father driving the family car onto the deck of the Vacationland. It was not only a car ferry, it was also an ice breaker. Most importantly, it was the boat that would transport a young boy to the land of the Huron, Ottawa, and Chippewa. 
Michael O. King, Sr. 
Homestead, FL

A Peaceful Environment 
What makes the U.P. unique is that when you cross the Mackinac Bridge and drive approximately one mile into the Upper Peninsula and look around, you suddenly realize that you are in a completely different world than that of the Lower Peninsula. It is quiet, serene and absolutely breathtaking whether its winter or summer. There is no traffic. There is no litter. It is a completely peaceful environment. 
Julie A. Lisowski 
Sterling Heights

Lots of Space 
What makes the U.P. unique for me is that it is so far away and the climate is so brutal that there are very few people. This means that in the U.P. there is a lot of empty space. This means that every person, every mammal, every fish, every bird and every insect, has room. Having enough space to live is such a wonderful thing.

Whenever I get into my car and head to Marquette to visit my family, I start to relax as soon as the car's engine start. By the time I am north of Milwaukee, I will be singing along with the radio. North of Green Bay I keep rolling the windows down to feel the icy cold wind and once I cross into the U.P I am grinning because I am a Yooper and I am home. 
Margaret Brumm 
Naperville, IL

Norway -- My Home Town 
My hometown of Norway in Dickinson County, located just a few miles from the Wisconsin border. During the summer, I grew up biking to Vulcan Lake (now renamed) to swim and biking to Piers Gorge and Quinnesec Falls to hike. I picked wild raspberries near the school forest, just a short walk from my home. I tried skiing with my father's old binderless skis on Nelson Hill and sledded there even when the snow turned icy from overuse. And, of course, all of us kids skated at the ice skating rink on winter weekends and evenings.

I still hike at Piers Gorge and Quinnesec Falls. The old sledding hill doesn't look quite as daunting as it used to, the skating rink has been moved, and there is a new subdivision along my old bike route to the cemetery, but I still experience a thrill each time I drive east on US-8 near Piers Gorge and see Norway Hill and the whole forested area around it rising above the city. I know that I'm coming home. 
Carla Overbeck 
Sleepy Hollow, IL

A Bear Experience 
Now at my age of 81 years, I can reflect back to the mid 1960s and regard the following incident as merely an experience. Then it was a serious situation.

In my employment as a lands manager for a major forest products industry in Michigan's Upper Peninsula, I found myself at times out in the forest appraising timberland. On one occasion my co-worker, Marv, and I were in north Delta County with our vehicle parked along a back woods road. When we were nearly one-half mile from our vehicle my eyes caught a glimpse of a small bear crossing a short distance ahead of me. I called to Marv that there was a small bear. Marv did not respond, but soon I spotted him on the run towards me. When he reached my side, partially winded, all he could say was that there was a large bear standing on its hind legs looking at him. We immediately decided that we had separated a cub from its mother and that we best get out of the woods and back to our vehicle. After we ran several hundred feet we stopped and looked back. We saw the mother bear slowly coming our way through the hardwoods. A slight wind was blowing and she was having difficulty following our scent. After reaching our vehicle we took off. The next day we returned to finish our work, armed with a 30-30 rifle. There were bear tracks in the sand along where we had parked the day before.
Robert E. Schmeling 
Escanaba

The Upper Peninsula - That Enchanting Land
A charming part of our state is the Upper Peninsula, so vast. 
It is close to me always - it is part of my past. 
Going there can be easy, though far away it may be. 
All those thrills here await us, and that "grand bridge" we will see.

So why hesitate longer? Let's be on our way. 
Fun times can be with us for a long or short stay. 
Matchless treasures to see and exciting things there to do. 
A great trip can be ours - let's make it come true.

Enchanting it is with the huge forests so green. 
The pines and the hemlocks are everywhere to be seen. 
The cedars, balsam, and spruce are all plentiful too. 
As are the maples, poplars, and birch - just to mention a few.

If you enjoy waterfalls, there are so many to see. 
Those on the "Tahquamenon River" are as great as any can be.
Both the upper and lower - so much grandeur is there. 
The matchless might of that river sends thrills everywhere.

Those rocky areas are out there - some flashy and bright. 
In other spots they are mellow - still showy with light. 
This adds much to that rugged terrain that's out there. 
So extensive in places, with those vivid colors -so rare.

Coastlines are extensive in this far-away land. 
Most shorelines are scenic and you'll see rock cliffs so grand. 
As we marvel at the beauty, we will see that deep water so clear.
Seeing ships pass through the "Soo Locks" - another thrill to hold dear.

Lakes are so numerous - some large and some small.
Accommodations are out there - should you want them, just call.
And the rivers too. There are some of the best. 
For recreational activities they can compete with the rest.

For long years there was mining and lumber camps too. 
While some still exist - so much more now is through. 
Most areas have strengthened and have much less to fear. 
And the tourists are a big factor throughout the whole year.

That most famous "Copper Country" you don't want to miss. 
With Copper Harbor the favorite at the top of my list. 
What a thrilling place to discover - a real special treat. 
There's a lodge and motels, and some great places to eat.

There is not the space to do justice to other favorite spots. 
The shipwreck museum, the Big Spring, and the pictured rocks.
Also Fayette, Grand Marais and Curtis - so much of interest to share. 
And the Porcupine Mountains await you, should you have time to spare.

You'll find quite different names of places as you travel around.
Pine Stump Junction is one. Can a more unique name be found? 
What about Christmas and Paradise? Both towns you'll go through. 
Many times we have been there. You will want to go too.

Now, back to McMillan where our lives we did share. 
One and one-half miles to the west - the old farm is still there. 
It is where I grew up. Those were the happiest of days. 
I guess this affects your whole life in so many ways.
Bohn Musgrave 
Haslett

My Country 
I was born in Bessemer, Michigan August 13, 1921. My grandfather who came from Sweden was captain of an iron mine in Gogebic County. Fishing was popular and contributed a large part to our dinner tables. No resident of the U.P. was more than forty miles from Lake Superior or Lake Michigan. Most of them looked forward to building or buying a wooden boat to continue the profession they brought with them from the "old country." I have been gone from the U.P. for a long time, but I try to go home for a visit every summer, and as soon as I cross that big bridge I know I am back in my country. 
Ray Larson 
White Cloud

The Pasty Sale 
Nothing, was preparation enough for becoming a Yooper. The challenge to top all others, however, had to be the pasties business. When my son's Boy Scout troop organized a pasty sale, I was recruited to spend two days at Flat Rock Hall participating in this Yooper adventure. It was there that I came face to face with rutabagas, about 100 pounds of them to be exact, just waiting to be peeled and cubed. Though I can't say that I ever knowingly touched that particular veggie before, I learned to my surprise that people "up here" actually eat them on purpose.

Pasties were mixed in a huge stainless steel bowl that was nearly as large as the North Dakota galvanized bathtub of my childhood. We soon donned plastic gloves and mixed hundreds of pounds of meat and cubed vegetables in the bowl. After one glance I didn't look at that process again. That explains, however, how I got assigned to the rolling-out-the-dough-table. Now, I've made a pie or two in my day, but rolling out 1,000 circles actually causes muscles to ache in body parts too numerous or too embarrassing to mention. However, I stayed with the dough business, as the alternative (putting meat mixture into dough mixture and sealing edges) still dealt with a squishy business best avoided. Imagine my surprise, then, when I saw the finished product, pasties that appeared to weigh more upon completion than either of my youngest two children did at birth!
Norma J. Kulas 
Gladstone

U.P. Favorites 
My favorite memories of the U.P. are picking thimbleberries in the Copper Harbor area and sleeping in the bedroom of Henry Ford's summer home at Pequaming, which had become a ghost town. The clean air and tranquility will always remain with me. I was born in Red Jacket in September 1918 where my father, Frank Kinsman, was mayor. The Kinsman Block in Calumet's historical section honors my grandfather, W.C. Kinsman. I'm proud to be from the U.P. 
Paul B. Kinsman 
Burton

Fresh Air 
Whenever we cross the Mackinaw Bridge, we roll down all my windows. This prevents us from carrying the bad Lower Peninsula air into the U.P. We do this no matter what time of year. 
Jamie Smith 
via the Internet

Summers in Laurium 
Spending my childhood summers in the U.P. has given me wonderful memories Mom took me to the sauna the family used when they were young, and Dreamland and Gay, where they, my grandparents, first settled. Swimming in Lake Superior was a frigid experience as was meeting Mom's cousins, who were Lake Superior fishermen. They brought the fish to us in a pail, still kicking. I watched old Aunt Madeline make rugs at her huge loom in Gay and listened to the two old ladies speak Finnish. That's where I saw the moose that drank at her water's edge. 
Sue Barchardt 
Fountain Valley, CA

The U.P is Special to Me 
I have such fond memories of the time I've spent in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. As a child my mother, father, aunt, brother and I would travel with our little "pop-up" trailer from campground to historic sites, from small towns to the grand shores of Lake Superior. This is where some of my nicest memories begin, on the sand and rock lined shores of Lake Superior. Nothing but Pine and Cedar forest behind us and the lake in front of us, a rock hunters dream. Walking what felt like miles, hardly passing a soul. Shooing off a few black flies and feeling a bit uneasy when coming upon a set of bear tracks leading towards the lake. All of us in search for the biggest, most beautiful Agate or Thompsonite that we could find. It was a time of togetherness and excitement, a time I will always treasure.
Helen Platz Greager 
Redford

 

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